Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Friday, June 28th - Flat Top Mountain

Friday, 28th
Flat top Mountain

This is the big one.


We’d learned a little lesson about overpacking on our Sky Pond trip. The weather was supposed to be dry and warm, and without the severe winds we had on Tuesday.

So we left our fleecies and rain jackets at camp, and brought 5 litter s of water, extra socks, and extra T shirts, because even with the dry weather, your back gets soaking wet with a 25 lb pack on it on a sunny day. Lots of GORP and fruit, too.


We predicted a 7 - 8 hour hike. The Flat top Mountain trail starts at the same location as our first hike on Sunday, what I call the Three Lakes hike, which is the most popular and accessible hike in the park. But the Flat Top Mt. hike ends up about 4 times higher, with some spectacular views of the lakes thousands of feet below, and ends above Tyndall Glacier, which we walked on and  threw a rock at.


The reason we made this our last hike is because it’s climbing up A WHOLE MOUNTAIN! The trails are all very well maintained. But c’mon… a MOUNTAIN!


Also, when we were here 6 years ago, we attempted this hike but got turned back by the daily rain and lightening that usually occurs in the Rockies. Every day at noon, storm clouds typically form, the rocks literally buzz with static electricity, and the finger of god pokes down hunting for hikers to fry. In the tundra, above tree line, hikers are the closest thing for the lightening to zap. 

So this time we woke up at 5:45, and got up to the trail head by 7:30, despite the road construction. We did this so we could get below tree line before noon.






You meet the nicest people on the trail. And some characters, too. But mostly really nice, college-educated, polite. But… hmmm… how do I say this. You know me (Brad), so when I say I’m just going to blurt it out, you might forgive me in advance. So I’ll just say it: White. Nothing but white folks everywhere, as far as the eye could see. White at camp, white on the mountains, white in the town. I literally saw just one black guy, and that was in Boulder. And he was wearing pajamas in the day time with a very strange spandex hat on. LOTS of (extremely fit) gay couples, asians, a surprising number of fat and even obese people… even a Samoan family. No black people. Why? I don’t know! Discuss amongst yourselves.

I mentioned before that literally everybody says “hi” on the trail. This time we met a lot of couples and had some great chats, probably because the elevation forced almost everybody to take long, regular breaks. Everybody except that guy who actually RAN UP THE MOUNTAIN.

A “thing” to on a mountain hike, about 3 to 5 times on any trip, is to take pictures of other couples or groups with their cameras. It’s a bonding experience.

We met a Boing engineer and his grade school teacher wife from Arizona who drove up on their Gold Wing motorcycle (insert as many motorcycle technical specifications as you can say without taking a breath in 15 seconds here). Again, very fit and in their mid-50’s.

There was the Texas couple. The guy was Meat Loaf large, but he made it all the way up! They had 3 kids back at the cabin with their father, and they trained with a 30 lb kid on their backs for 1 day. I can guarantee that his calves will hurt so much that he won’t be able to get a sandwich from the refrigerator without a walker for a week. Again… super friendly. I hope for his quick recovery.

Finally, we met a guy from Watertown Wisconsin, wearing a Lake Mills marathon T-shirt. He told us how time shares work, and helped me figure out that there is no way that I can afford one.
30 years as a police officer, 15 as a teacher, he’s collecting 2 pensions and now owns The Health Nut, a health food store in Watertown, with his wife, also a retired school teacher. SUPER nice guy.

Actually met a young man from the USGS (United States Geological Survey). Just in Colorado 1 month from Tennessee, he was  taking readings on the high mountain lakes. Totally loaded down with gear, including an inflatable raft, as well as 20 lbs of dreads. I’ll say it again… super nice guy.

Oh, and that reminds me: Lots of teenagers, groups, couples and solo hikers. Friendly, outgoing, polite, and occasionally noisy. But MAN, they don’t even breathe hard I swear. I saw just ONE teenager with iPod headphones… and he was the guy running up the mountain.

So we finally made it up and down our nemesis mountain. My feet were sore, and Vicki’s knees and hip were too. A little bit of ibuprofen after pizza and ice cream, and we were right as rain/fit as a fiddle/hunky dory. Okay, we were beat, too.

Speaking of pizza, after this last hike we found this weird but awesome little wood fired pizza place just a block outside of tiny town Estes. Eating our pizza next to the window for about 15 minutes, what do we see…
Do you remember the opening credits for the TV show Northern Exposure? Remember the shot of the moose ambling down the road? That’s what we saw, but replace the moose with a very, very large Elk with giant, fuzzy antlers. He just kept walking towards down town. “Oh yea, we see that pretty regularly. That was a big one”, the pizza guy said.


It was all quite an adventure. This vacation did what I think any vacation is supposed to do, it took us out of our comfort zone, and even made us feel kind of out of place and time. It was a trip. We weren’t looking just to go someplace novel, look around, spend some money then come back home. We wanted real experiences with actual challenges. This time.
Checking each other, we agree that this week’s experiences, with the perfectly sunny weather every day and night, did what we hoped and expected and we’re pretty dang happy and content, and ready to head back home. The 2 months of walking up steps for an hour each and walking back and forth to work paid off, and neither of us got hurt. 

So Friday afternoon we had plenty of time to pack at a leisurely rate. Driving down the twisty-turny, Vicki got the chance for one last look at all of the dramatic cliffs, drop offs and other mountain terrain. You’ve really got to take this road some time. It’s amazing. We said good by to the mountains.

As we started packing we noticed the first dark clouds in a week forming over the mountains. As we finished packing, the first drops started to fall. “Awww, Colorado is sad that we’re going”.
An hour later and into the third wave of hail, 50 mile an hour winds, trees falling and torrential rain, we agreed that Colorado was actually pretty pissed we were leaving.

Thursday 27th Gem Lake


In the spirit of building up to our big Friday hike - and not damaging ourselves before that day - We decided on a nice, gentle hike for Thursday: Gem Lake.

Gem Lake and its trail head are in the Lumpy Range. If you google the Stanley Hotel - the hotel where Stephen King wrote “The Shining” - you’ll see the rocks of the lumpy range behind the hotel.


The feeling and look of hiking in the lumpy range is a lot different from most of the hikes in Rocky Mountain National park. While the climate in Colorado is very dry, which makes for very comfortable hiking, the climate in the Lumpy Range felt like it was in Arizona.
Did I mention that this is the time of year when the wild flowers are in full bloom in Colorado? They were everywhere, despite there being literally no rain in our area for about 10 days, and temperatures daily in the 90’s. Flowers everywhere.


And even in the Lumpy Range. Gem Lake is really just a glorified pond, and with the moderate drought going on in Northern Colorado, it had shrunk to 3/4 it’s usual size, and no water was draining out of it. 

The hike is only about 5 miles, and about 450 feet in elevation gain.The climb is simply beautiful, mostly because of the stunning rock formations..

There was kind of a big crowd at the top, not a feature you hope for at the end of a climb in beautiful, natural wilderness. Probably about 30 people, standing in the water, music playing, teenagers yanking. It felt more like a water park. We brought a picnic, so we walked just about 1/2 mile further, out on a ridge with a beautiful view of the Estes valley. We sunned and ate and made friends with all of the wildlife - chipmonks, crows, ants.


I was very inspired by the scenery on this hike, so I have lots of pictures… more than I can show on this blog.

















This time when we got back to our camp site, we DID have cocktails next to the river at camp. Then we made sure our back packs were perfectly set for our final hike on Friday. Here’s hoping no body parts get more damaged than they already are..

Wednesday 26th rest day


Wednesday 26th... Rest Day


Wednesday we took another day off from hiking. Monday’s hike up to Sky Pond was pretty strenuous, and we figured we’d better get at least one day of rest in before our big hike up flat top mountain, which is the same distance - 9 miles round trop - but required going up twice the elevation… from 1,500 feet to 3,000 feet. The top of Flat top is at about 12,300 feet.

In the town of Estes Park, they have a dam on the Big Thomson river that provides hydro electric power. So vicki found a little beach on it around 11:00 am - we were definitely in a hurry to get up to Estes park that day - and I went to the library to draw.

I don’t know if I mentioned it, but  we camped just outside of Loveland, which is NOT in the mountains. Extes Park IS in the Rocky Mountains, about 25 miles up a dramatic gorge that follows the Big Thompson river. We camped right next to the river, about 10 feet away from it. Best sleep camping We’ve ever had. The sound of the river drowned out any noise the other campers made.
So every day we drove the 25 miles up this twisty-turny road to Estes Park, which took about 40 minutes, depending on whether all the cars in front of you were from Colorado or not.

We met up around 3:00 and I dragged Vicki into Loveland to see Monsters University, - which we LOVED - instead of sipping cocktails at a picnic table next to the rushing river at camp.

Tomorrow: Gem Lake.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Sunday, June 23
1st Hike: Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake

Starting at the Bear Lake trailhead, this hike is easily the most popular one in the park because of its ease of accessibility and the number of beautiful lakes you can quickly see in a 2 hour hike.
On the way you hike over some snow - even in July - and end up with an incredible vista with a glacier at the top. The hike is about 3.6 miles, and has an elevation gain of only about 600 feet. I've done this hike about 6 times. It's a great one to start out on as it will help you get acclimated to the elevation. All sorts and shapes of people can do this hike.
I once saw a snowboarder go down the glacier far above Emerald Lake, which is about 12,300 feet at the top. He just snowboarded down, walked around the lake toward us, and nonchalantly exited down the path.
Another year it actually snowed during the hike, in the middle of the day, on July 3rd.
You can access the hike at the Bear Lake trailhead. A shuttle runs every 15 minutes from the park entrance, and is free with your $17 weekly pass for the park. Or you can drive to the trial head parking lot, and cross your fingers hoping there'll be a parking space left. Hint: There won't be after 8:00 am.


Sky Pond

June 25, 2013


If you come to Rocky Mountain National Park, and you want to do one moderately difficult hike with huge payoffs in scenic beauty, Sky Pond is your best choice.

Today we did what we were supposed to do and woke up at 6:00 am, with the intent to be at the trailhead ay 7:30. Everything went pretty well. We skipped breakfast, except for the PBJs Vicki made in the car on the ride up there. The construction on the roads in the park made us about 45 minutes late. We overpacked, with enough gorp for 2 meals.
Thank goodness we brought gloves and hat. The wind was either steady or gusting up to 45 mph, depending if you were in the trees or in the open.
This is an extremely popular hike, with beautiful waterfalls and lakes for the entire length. It is 8.6 miles round trip, with an elevation gain of 1,500 feet. At an altitude of between 9,180 and 10,600 feet, for a flatlander, it'll make you walk in baby steps for the steep parts.
The good thing about that is, the crowds thin out about half way up.

Monday, June 24, 2013

June 24, 2013

Boulder Colorado



Today was a "relaxing" day.
We woke up when we wanted. Finally, no noisy neighbors next to us. Blissful sleep for 9 hours, for the first time in 3 days.
We drove to Boulder. Vicki wanted to do a little shopping, and there is a wonderful shopping section in downtown Boulder. Just so well planned and kept up. Super busy, even on a Monday at noon. If you've got a thing for really beautiful downtowns, Boulder is a place you should visit.

I went hiking.

The flatirons are the steep, angular mountains right next to boulder. You literally go to the edge of town and you are hiking in the flat irons. Not sure if it's one word or two.
I started at the Chautaqua:
http://www.chautauqua.com/
Lots of people, lots of groups. There are plenty of minor hikes you can to on in the flat irons, but I wanted the highest one. So I went up to see the Royal Arch. Before you start thinking that I did something special, know that I was passed by no fewer than 3 men RUNNING up the path.
It is a bit drier here, just 45 minutes south of loveland. But it is still spring and there is still a variety of beautiful, small wild flowers. And yucca.

I can't say enough about how friendly almost everyone on a trail is. Big smiles and hello's all of the time.
We've been up here for about 2 days. Not enough time to adjust to the elevation yet. But we're pretty happy with out progress so far. I was really huffing and sweating. It's been 6 years since I've been here last, and at 52, I've got my share of old man ailments. Tennis elbow, knee surgery on one knee and the other knee jealous of the first. Bursitis in the left hip, which had me using a cane until about February of this year. Chalk-drawing induced nerve injury 3 weeks ago that kept me from even raising my toes on my left foot.. about 30% recovered so far.

So my point is, I'm very, VERY grateful to be back here and actually able to hike up these trails. Oh, I forgot to mention... Vicki isn't having any trouble at all.

Tomorrow: Sky Pond hike. Have to be at the trail head, an hour away by 7:00 am.
Elevation Start: 9,180
Elevation End: 10,620
Total elevation gain: 1,500 feet
Distance: 10 miles, round trip

BTW, Milwaukee is at about an elevation of 600 feet.
Estes Park (The town inside of Rocky Mountain National Park), about 7,000 feet
Loveland CO (where we are camping): 4,500 feet

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Across Nebraska  & Colorado, and up Trail Ridge road


Friday night we found out motel without any problem, right off of hwy 80 in Lincoln Nebraska. Lincoln is a beautiful little town, with a unique city hall that dominates the landscape (if you can ignore the 3 immense stadiums).
Friday night it's super busy with tourists and locals. No place to park on the street.
I'd reserved a room in the cheapest motel in Lincoln at the cheapest price. I got what I expected with a room next to the ice machine and an air conditioner that kept me up all night.

I usually read during the drive, but lord I was sleepy. We had a great time listening to Julia Sweeney's live performance audiobook, "Letting go of god". We had about 2 hours of amazing discussion afterward. Then a David Sedaris audio book, always fun.
http://www.audible.com/pd/ref=sr_1_1?asin=B002V1JQ8I&qid=1371966595&sr=1-1
We found our camp ground around 4:00. After setting up for an hour, we headed straight up hwy 24 towards Estes park. Vicki has never taken this route, and it was a joy watching her in awe of the constantly incredible views.
When we got up above tree line, she was kind of freaked out by the roads literally 2 feet from the edge of suicidal cliffs, with no guard rails. There are only these 10 foot wooden poles, and they're just there to show the snow plows where the road went in the Winter.
Finally at the top, we took a hike. At 12,200 feet, I almost passed out at the beginning... and several times during.
Vicki and I hiked to the same place that, 6 years ago, I proposed to her, and she accepted.
The sun set at the top of trail ridge road, and we went back to Estes Park for a little dinner, then back to Loveland, where Vicki is peacefully asleep next to a burbling river, and I'm finally finished typing this at midnight.
Tomorrow, settling into camp, and our first real hike.